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淺談烘焙缺陷當(dāng)我們談到精品咖啡的時(shí)候，呈現(xiàn)在咖啡供應(yīng)鏈里的每一個(gè)步驟對(duì)于最后呈現(xiàn)在我們面前的咖啡成品都至關(guān)重要。那么在咖啡從種子到杯子供應(yīng)鏈里一個(gè)非常重要的步驟是烘焙。When it comes to specialty coffee, every step in the supply chain becomes extremely important in creating the final product that we enjoy as a cup of coffee. One hugely important step in the chain of coffee from seed to cup, is roasting.
咖啡烘焙從表面上講，似乎僅僅是一個(gè)簡(jiǎn)單的過(guò)程，拿來(lái)咖啡生豆，加一些熱量，然后幾分鐘內(nèi)你就有了烘培咖啡豆。也許對(duì)于一些沒(méi)有投入時(shí)間來(lái)享受更精細(xì),更復(fù)雜的咖啡烘培方法的公司和顧客而言那就是咖啡烘培了，但對(duì)于專業(yè)的咖啡大師和顧客而言，烘培的過(guò)程會(huì)更加的注重細(xì)節(jié)也需要更多的投入。Roasting coffee, on the surface, seems like a simple enough process of taking a green coffee bean, adding some heat, and in a few minutes you have roast coffee. While the process may be just that simple for some companies and consumers who don’t take the time to enjoy the finer, more complex aspects of coffee, for specialty coffee craftsmen and consumers the process is much more detailed and involved.
在烘培的過(guò)程中咖啡豆經(jīng)歷著許多不同的化學(xué)和物理的變化，基于這些變化對(duì)于最后咖啡質(zhì)量的影響很多仍然沒(méi)有被完全理解。一些影響咖啡烘培的因素（僅舉幾例）包括： 空氣流，熱源，溫度上升速率，轉(zhuǎn)鼓轉(zhuǎn)速 （ 對(duì)于烘培轉(zhuǎn)鼓而言），風(fēng)扇速度，結(jié)束溫度和冷卻時(shí)間。在烘培的過(guò)程中有如此多的影響咖啡質(zhì)量的變量因素去控制和管理，也就見(jiàn)怪不怪了，每年會(huì)有那么多的咖啡會(huì)被過(guò)度烘培，烘培不足或者因?yàn)橐恍┢渌囊蛩囟a(chǎn)生烘培瑕疵。During the roasting process the coffee bean undergoes so many different chemical and physical changes that many are still not fully understood as to their impact on the coffee’s final quality. Some of the factors affecting the roast include airflow, heat source, rate of temperature rise, drum speed (for drum roasters), fan speed, ending temperature and cooling time, just to name a few.With so many different variables to control and monitor during roasting that impact the quality of the roast, it’s no wonder that so many batches of coffee are (tragically) over-roasted, under-roasted or meet some other fate as a roasted defect each year.
有許多種不同的烘培瑕疵會(huì)出現(xiàn)，但是一些最常見(jiàn)的包括： 焙烤，頂部燒焦，破損豆，局部燒焦和 快速烘培。 你可以在舊版美國(guó)精品咖啡協(xié)會(huì)的咖啡風(fēng)味輪的不恰當(dāng)烘培部分看到所列舉的這些因素。There are many different kinds of roast defects that can occur, but some of the most prevalent include: baking, tipping, chipping, scorching, and fast roasting. You can see a few of these listed on the old version SCAA’s Coffee Taster’s Flavor Wheel under Improper Roasting.焙烤 Baking
焙烤可能出現(xiàn)在烘培過(guò)程的一些方面。可能由于烘培過(guò)程中溫度過(guò)低。于是確切的講焙烤是在整個(gè)咖啡的標(biāo)準(zhǔn)烘培時(shí)間12分鐘里，溫度的提升是每分鐘1-2 攝氏度（ 這里僅談樣品烘培）。如果說(shuō)在烘培的過(guò)程中任何的增溫點(diǎn)內(nèi)每分鐘的增溫率不上升反而下降，通常人們也叫烘烤烘培 。這通常會(huì)發(fā)生在接近一爆的時(shí)候，為了防止豆子過(guò)度烘培，烘培師會(huì)關(guān)小熱源，要么快速降溫或者長(zhǎng)時(shí)間保持較低的溫度。焙烤情況下的豆子，通常會(huì)表面顏色上看著像標(biāo)準(zhǔn)烘培，但是豆子內(nèi)部的顏色將不會(huì)和豆子外部顏色相匹配。相對(duì)而言，標(biāo)準(zhǔn)烘培豆子內(nèi)部顏色應(yīng)該相對(duì)Agtron 數(shù)值淺 5 分。 相對(duì)標(biāo)準(zhǔn)烘培的咖啡的話，焙烤的咖啡嘗起來(lái)會(huì)非常的單調(diào)，無(wú)趣，也可能會(huì)有類似谷物或面包的味道。Baking can occur at a few places during roasting. It can occur from too low of heat applied throughout the roast, thus actually baking the coffee by only increasing the temperature 1-2 degrees per minute for a total roast time of well over the standard 12 minutes (talking about sample roasting).Usually people will also call a roast baked if at any point during the roast the rate of rise per minute either doesn’t increase or actually drops. This usually happens near first crack when, in order to keep the beans from over-roasting, the roaster will lower the heat source and either lower it too far or keep it lowered for too long. Baking the roast will usually create a bean that on the outside looks like a standard roast, but the inside color of the bean will not match the outside, which for a standard roast the inside color should be around 5 points lighter using the Agtron scale.A bakes cup will typically taste very flat and dull compared to a standard roast of the same coffee, and can also have grain or bread-like flavor notes.頂部燒焦
頂部燒焦通常發(fā)生在被稱為猛烈烘培的過(guò)程中，或者當(dāng)太多的熱量被吸收的太快的話。豆子頂部接近胚芽的地方，會(huì)爆破而在豆子末端留下凹痕。頂部燒焦的咖啡通常會(huì)有類似臭鼬或者谷類作物的味道。Tipping usually happens during what’s called a violent roast, or when too much heat is applied too quickly. The tip of the bean, near the embryo, bursts leaving a dark indention on the end of the bean. Tipped coffee will usually have a skunky or cereal-like flavor.崩裂豆
崩裂豆與頂部燒焦的豆子有些類似，出現(xiàn)在激烈烘培的過(guò)程中，在深度烘焙的咖啡更為普遍。當(dāng)豆子最脆弱的薄膜承受不住壓力時(shí)，豆子內(nèi)部的水分開(kāi)始蒸發(fā)，進(jìn)而發(fā)生爆破而在豆子的表面產(chǎn)生破裂。不要對(duì)頂部燒焦感到迷惑，崩裂豆通常出現(xiàn)在豆子的圓形的表面。崩裂豆自身不會(huì)產(chǎn)生風(fēng)味瑕疵，但是經(jīng)常出現(xiàn)在深度烘培的咖啡中。因此咖啡會(huì)有焦的，類似碳味的風(fēng)味。Chipping is similar to tipping in that it occurs during violent roasts and is more prevalent in dark roasted coffees. Chipping happens when the moisture level in the bean begins evaporating at such a rate that the weakest point of the bean membrane can no longer contain the pressure, bursting and creating a chip on the surface of the bean. Not to be confused with tipping，chipping usually occurs on the rounded surface of the bean. Chipping creates no flavor defect of its own, but almost always happens in dark roasted coffees, therefore the coffee will have dark, char-like flavor notes.局部燒焦
局部燒焦的出現(xiàn)是基于有太高的轉(zhuǎn)鼓的控制溫度。控制溫度是基于當(dāng)烘培師把生豆放在轉(zhuǎn)鼓中在烘培開(kāi)始時(shí)的溫度。因?yàn)檩^高的溫度，咖啡生豆的表面通常會(huì)出現(xiàn)局部燒焦。在豆子的表面留下黑點(diǎn)?；诳Х仍絹?lái)越深的顏色，你可能不能夠看清楚最后烘培豆上的黑點(diǎn)，這就意味著局部燒焦有時(shí)很難去發(fā)現(xiàn)。局部燒焦的豆子會(huì)在咖啡里出現(xiàn)燒焦的灰塵的味道。Scorching occurs due to having too high of a drum charge temperature. Charge temperature refers to the temperature at the beginning of the roast when the roaster places the green coffee inside the drum. Because of the high temperature, the surface of the green coffee will actually become scorched, leaving black marks on the surface of the bean.You may or may not be able to see the marks clearly on the final roasted bean due to the darker color of the coffee, meaning scorching is sometimes harder to detect. The scorching creates a charred or ash-like flavor in the coffee.快速烘焙快速烘培是簡(jiǎn)單的，當(dāng)烘培師過(guò)快烘培豆子時(shí)出現(xiàn)。這種狀況出現(xiàn)在太多的熱量被吸收，并且加溫率過(guò)快，以至于咖啡沒(méi)有足夠的時(shí)間去在烘培的過(guò)程中很好的發(fā)展。豆子的表面將看起來(lái)像標(biāo)準(zhǔn)烘培的顏色，但是豆子的內(nèi)部顏色很淺，并且有點(diǎn)發(fā)展不足。很多時(shí)候，快速烘培，由于過(guò)快的加溫，也會(huì)導(dǎo)致顏色太深了。這樣咖啡豆過(guò)度烘培的表面就會(huì)產(chǎn)生一種混合的碳味和灰塵味，同時(shí)豆子的內(nèi)部也會(huì)有發(fā)展不足的干草或者草味。A fast roast is simply that, when a roaster roasts the coffee too quickly. This happens when too much heat is applied and the rate of rise is so high that the coffee doesn’t have time to fully develop during the roast. The outside surface of the bean will look like a standard roast color, but the inside of the bean will be light and underdeveloped.Many times fast roasts, because of the rapid heating, will also be taken too dark. This creates a combination of char and ash flavor from the over-roasted surface of the bean and under-developed hay or grass-like flavors from the inside of the bean.
烘焙師寄語(yǔ)：
由于在咖啡烘培的過(guò)程中有太多的變量因素需要去考慮去控制，那么作為精品咖啡的烘培師這也是必要的。因此我們要不斷的在這些問(wèn)題上去學(xué)習(xí)探索，注意到這些變量，從而我們可以制作最好質(zhì)量的咖啡，珍惜所有的咖農(nóng)和在咖啡供應(yīng)鏈里將咖啡帶到烘培這一環(huán)節(jié)的參與者的辛勤工作，進(jìn)而把真正可以稱作精品咖啡的產(chǎn)品提供給廣大消費(fèi)者。Because of the amount of variables to control and issues that can occur during coffee roasting, it’s imperative as specialty coffee artisans, that we educate ourselves on these issues and are aware so that we are able to craft the finest coffee quality possible, passing along all of the hard work of the farmers and everyone who has brought the coffee to this point in the supply chain, and deliver what can truly be called specialty coffee.TORCH咖啡實(shí)驗(yàn)室云南
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